Archive for the 'Chicken' Category



Chicken Stuffed with Prosciutto, Herbs, and Cheese

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Yesterday morning, I pulled some boneless chicken thighs out of the freezer with the idea of doing something with them for dinner. My original though was to make some sort of stir fry but, when dinner time approached, stir fry no longer held the allure it did previously.

That left me sitting on the floor in front of my bookcase full of cookbooks (I think I may have a problem…) desperately trying to find something to make. Boneless chicken thighs aren’t exactly common in cookbooks but to add to the difficulty was the fact that we were out of eggs which made a breadcrumb coating impossible.

In the end, I decided to be adventuresome and forgo a recipe. This is a bit unusual for me. Normally I like the comfort and safety of a recipe (not that that’s a guarantee of success; Will can attest to my pumpkin pie failure). I also don’t find myself to be particularly creative or good at finding compatible ingredients (I think that means I wouldn’t be a particularly good chef).

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While looking through the cookbooks, I had decided that some sort of rolled and stuffed would be preferable. So, heading to the fridge, I tried to figure out exactly what I could stuff the chicken with. Prosciutto is an obvious choice as what doesn’t go well with prosciutto? Parmesan cheese would be a good complement (I had originally though of using provolone but Angela isn’t a big fan of it and it can be a bit strong). Finally, I went through some of the fresh herbs that I’ve accumulated recently and settled on thyme and savory (mainly because I wasn’t entirely sure of the taste of savory).

In the end, the chicken turned out pretty well. The only problem was that it took longer than I expected and that there were a bit too many herbs (the recipe here presents a reduced amount). The sauce it’s cooked also cooked down a bit much so there wasn’t any for pouring but the chicken didn’t need it.

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Chicken Stuffed with Prosciutto, Herbs, and Cheese

2 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
2 slice prosciutto
2 tbsp grated parmesan cheese
2 sprigs thyme, leaves only, diced
1 sprig savory, leaves only, diced
salt and pepper
1/4 cup flour
2 tbsp olive oil
4 sun-dried tomatoes, diced
1/4 cup white wine or vermouth
1 cup chicken stock

  1. Spread the chicken thighs flat and season the inside with salt and pepper. Place one slice of prosciutto on each chicken thigh and then sprinkle with cheese and herbs. Roll up the chicken thighs along the longest axis. Tie in two places with butcher’s twine or secure with toothpicks. Season the outside of the chicken with salt and pepper on all sides. Dredge the chicken in the flour.
  2. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the chicken and brown on all sides. Remove the chicken to a plate.
  3. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and cook for 1 minute.
  4. Deglaze the pan with the white wine or vermouth, scrapping up any brown bits. Add the chicken stock and return the chicken. Cover and simmer until the chicken reaches 165ºF, about 30 minutes.
  5. Remove the chicken from the skillet and top with the sun-dried tomatoes. Cut the butcher’s twine on the chicken or remove the tooth picks.

Serves 2.

Fried Chicken

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Every once in awhile I get a craving for fried chicken. And the sad thing is, until yesterday, I’ve been unable to make it and there’s a dearth of good fried chicken here (I have still yet to try Roscoe’s Chicken and Waffles). I’ve tried a number of recipes (including Cook’s Illustrated among others) and none of them satisfied (usually the batter didn’t come out correctly).

I mean, fried chicken has a look. Everyone knows what fried chicken looks like. And mine never did. It was either too pale or too dark. Or it had mostly fallen off the chicken. And it didn’t have a satisfactory taste to it.

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But that all changed last night. I finally had fried chicken success. I was finally a fried chicken master. The chicken was browned. It had the look. It was juicy all the way through (is it me or is one of the most disappointing things in the world dry fried chicken breasts?) Okay, it came out overly salty (I’m blaming that on my over optimistic reading of the line “brine for at least 4 hours or overnight”; when they say overnight, the Lee Brother’s apparently don’t mean 24 hours). But it was still good. Very good. And it was even better with their biscuits and creamed corn.

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Fried Chicken
Adapted from The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook: Stories and Recipes for Southerners and Would-be Southerners

3 chicken thighs, bone-in and skin-on
3 chicken legs, bone-in and skin-on
3 cups peanut or canola oil

Brine:
2 cups water
1/4 cup kosher salt

Dredging Mixture:
1/2 cup all purpose flour
3 tbsp cornmeal
2 tsp kosher salt
1 1/2 tsp black pepper

  1. In a medium bowl (one that holds about 2 to 3 quarts; mine is actually my “small” bowl), stir together the brine ingredients until the salt is dissolved. Trim any excess fat from the chicken thighs and legs (on mine, there was a large layer of fat on the underside of the chicken thighs) and then add them to the brine. Cover the bowl and place in the refrigerator. Brine for 4 hours and up to overnight (which is what the recipe said; I brined over night and the chicken was too salty; in this case, overnight should mean no more than 8 hours or so). Remove the chicken from the refrigerator at least two hours before cooking so that it can come up to room temperature.
  2. In shallow dish mix the dredging mixture together (I actually have a set of plastic dishes that are designed for breading food). Dredge each piece of chicken through the dredging mixture, until coated thoroughly. Shake off any excess.
  3. In a large skillet (preferably cast iron and you need it to hold all the chicken), add enough oil to coat the bottom by 1/3″. Heat the oil over high heat until it reaches 325ºF. Add the chicken skin side up, cover the pan, and cook for 6 minutes. Turn the chicken, cover the pan, and cook for another 6 minutes. During the cooking process attempt to maintain the heat between 325ºF and 350ºF.
  4. Remove the chicken to a paper towel covered plate.

Serves 2 to 3 (we had leftovers which are my lunch today).

My Grandmother’s Chicken Pot Pie

Chicken Pot Pie

My grandmother would frequently make this dish whenever we went over for dinner (I think it tended to be the days when it was just my dad and I for dinner; my dad isn’t really a culinary genius). At some point, my grandmother served this to my wife (I think it might have been before we were married) who proceeded to love it.

The thing about this is that it’s not really a chicken pot pie. It’s definitely related but it’s closer to a chicken noodle soup. It’s chicken, noodles, potatoes, and a few vegetables in a small amount of broth. I don’t know how it got its name, but it was always simply referred to as chicken pot pie (to the best of my knowledge my grandmother never has made a traditional chicken pot pie). I also have no idea of the providence of this recipe beyond my grandmother.

When I permanently moved away from home after college, I asked my grandmother to write down a recipe for her tomato sauce (partially for curiosity, mainly to placate her). She also wrote down the recipe for the chicken pot pie on the same piece of paper (if I remember correctly, it was because Angela liked it a lot).

CRW_9563My grandmother is not entirely there any more (well, really ever) and it shows when you tried and read the recipe. At least for the tomato sauce, there were a number of things missing the first time I asked her about it that she added later on. It’s also written in very disjointed sentences.

So, today, I got out my Sherlock Holmes hat (if only I really had one), and set out to decode the recipe. I’m not really sure how much the result really resembles my grandmother’s techniques and I doubt that the dish would be better following her techniques more closely (she has insisted for a number of years that there’s an oil sack in a leg of lamb that you have to make the butcher take out). If you haven’t figured it out by now, my grandmother is a bit crazy (and really always has been).

CRW_9564As to the recipe itself, you basically cook the chicken in simmering water while making a stock. You then cook potatoes and noodles in the stock and add the cooked chicken back in. Not a particularly complicated process if you’ve made stock before (and really, even if you haven’t). Because I had some corn in the fridge that needed to be eaten (I bought it almost a week ago; I’m a master of buying vegetables and then not using them for a long period of time), I added that to the pot pie and I think it added some nice texture and flavor. The homemade noodles were where I fell flat. Now, I’ve made homemade pasta lots of times. I understand how to make pasta. Unfortunately, that doesn’t mean I know how to make noodles. The directions that my grandmother included were a little less than comprehensive. I’m not even sure what style of noodles these are (they have flour, shortening, and water in them). What really went wrong was that I simply undercooked them; they became a bit too rubbery and chewy.

I’m a bit proud of myself as I had to guess and improvise quite a bit about how the dish goes together (not really my strong point; I tend to cook from recipes unless it’s particularly simple or I understand the dish well). I made the prefect amount of stock to go along with the chicken (I was afraid I’d have way too much but it was just perfect). I also guessed that the starch from the potatoes and noodles would thicken the broth up to the right point. The only part that didn’t come out as well as I would have liked (and I understand why) was the noodles (they were still good, just not quite perfect). It’s also nice to finally get to put up an original recipe up here (while it’s originally my grandmother’s, the recipe she gave me is more like a sign pointing me in the right direction).

My Grandmother’s Chicken Pot Pie

2 lbs chicken pieces, skin on and bone in (preferably chicken thighs)
salt and pepper
2 tbsp butter
2 tbsp of sherry
3 stalks of celery
1 medium carrot
1 medium onion
a bouquet garni made up of 4 sprigs thyme, 2 sprigs Italian parsley, and a bay leaf
3 cups of all purpose flour
4 tbsp of shortening
1 lbs potatoes
2 cups of corn, preferably fresh (about 3 ears of corn)

  1. Dry the chicken pieces thoroughly. Season them on both sides with salt and pepper. Over medium-high heat, melt the butter in a skillet, then brown the chicken pieces on both sides, about 4 minutes per side.
  2. Pour the fat out of the skillet and discard. Off heat, deglaze the skillet with the sherry. Over high heat, boil the sherry for a minute, then turn off the heat and add 1 cup of water.
  3. Place the chicken in a dutch oven. Pour the contents of the skillet into the dutch oven then add cold water to cover the chicken completely. Bring the contents to a simmer over medium heat, do not allow to boil. Skim the surface of the stock until there is no remaining “scum” accumulating (while I’m sure there are better culinary definitions of “scum” on a stock, I remove anything that doesn’t look particularly appetizing).
  4. Cut the carrot and one stalk of celery into 3 inch long pieces. Peel the onion and quarter it. After the “scum” stops accumulating on the surface of the stock, add the carrot, celery, onion, and bouquet garni. Simmer slowly for one hour.
  5. While the stock is cooking, make the noodles. I made my noodles via the well method. You may be more comfortable mixing them in a bowl which should turn out fine (I made them this way because I make pasta via the well method). On a large flat surface (e.g. a cutting board, a sheet of parchment, a baking mat), place the flour. Make a well in the center and add the shortening and 2 tsp of salt. Cut the shortening into the flour. Once the shortening is incorporated into the flour (it won’t be completely incorporated but will be well distributed), make another well in the flour and add 3/4 of a cup of water. Mix the water with the flour. You may need to add up to another 1/4 cup of water to make the dough come together. Knead the dough briefly to make sure it’s come together. Roll out the noodle dough until it’s 1/4″ thick. Cut the dough into strips 1/2″ wide by 2″ long. Set the dough aside.
  6. Peel the potatoes and cut into bite size pieces. Cut the remaining two stalks of celery of celery into 1/8″ wide pieces. If using fresh corn, cut it off the cob.
  7. After one hour of simmering, remove the chicken, the vegetables and the bouquet garni from the stock. Retain the chicken and discard the vegetables and bouquet garni.
  8. Boil the stock for 10 minutes until slightly reduced. Return the stock to a simmer. Season the stock with salt and pepper to taste (really taste it; it needs salt and it’s hard for me to tell how much).
  9. Add the potatoes and celery to the stock and cook for 5 minutes.
  10. Add the noodles and corn and cook for another 5 minutes.
  11. Remove the skin and bone from the cooked chicken. Shred the chicken into bite sizes pieces. Season the chicken with salt and pepper to taste (it’s not raw now; you can taste it without getting sick!). Add the cooked chicken to the stock and cook for 5 more minutes.
  12. Remove from heat and check the seasoning.

Serves 8 (this is really just a guess; there are only two of us and it made a large amount; I believe I know what I’m taking to work for lunch the rest of the week)

General Tso’s Chicken or How to Create Pepper Spray in Your Own Kitchen

Apparently, if you cook chilies in more oil than necessary, then add liquid, you will create your very own homemade pepper spray. As I was cooking the General Tso’s Chicken, I was suddenly overcome by a combination hacking and sneezing fit (in retrospect it’s not something that I thought would be physiologically possible but I often manage to surprise myself with my own abilities). By the time my wife noticed my predicament, the toxic cloud had drifted the few feet to her and she was overcome. And now I understand how pepper spray works.

Now, I don’t normally cook Chinese food (let alone any Asian cuisine). It’s not that I don’t like it, it’s just that it’s culinarily 180 degrees from my comfort zone. I usually stick to Italian or French dishes, occasionally adding in other European fare or the Americanized versions thereof (thereof is a seriously underrated word in the English language). In my mind, Asian food is something you go out to eat (speaking of which, why are there a dearth of reasonably good Chinese places in Long Beach?)

Chinese and other Asian foods are different from my American (and by extension European) culinary tradition (well don’t I sound pompous; perhaps I should refer to food tradition). The techniques are just significantly different. While thinking about the differences, I realized I’m not even qualified to comment on what the differences are: that is my level of understanding of Asian cuisine. I’ve made a few successful stir fries (and I highly recommend this tutorial) but they were rather Americanized affairs.

Despite this lack of knowledge, I had heard rumors that Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes from Hunan Province was a good cookbook. I also have happened to find that the library has an online request system (somehow with regards to libraries I’m stuck in mid-1980’s; I’m still skeptical of using anything that isn’t a real card catalog). Of course the combination of a cookbook to reconnoiter and an automagical book request system meant that I got a copy of the book into my grubby little hands (their much grubbier when I make bread but that’s another story, or would that be blog post?).

Being a good American, I immediately thought that many of the recipes would not be the first on my list to try. I mean, many of them even had vegetables in them. While that’s not really what I thought, I did think that some of the ingredients I had not heard of before and would be a bit harder to come by and that my vegetable-hating wife (well, maybe not all vegetables) would not like them.

So what was probably one of the only recipes in the entire cookbook I had heard of (not counting the spring rolls; is it just me or do spring rolls seem to be entirely too time consuming to actually make? all those who make them have my respect) was General Tso’s Chicken. In the cookbook, two different versions are listed: one from Taiwan (where the dish was invented) and one from Hunan (which is the style in which it is made). Not surprising to me was the fact that it’s virtual unheard of in China (that would be the People’s Republic of, it’s actually found in Taiwan). Contrary to rumors I heard, however, there was actually a General Tso at some point in the past (and I figured he was just made up).

As to the recipe itself, the first item to note is that it is spicy. Very spicy. Now, I can’t claim to like my food flaming hot, but I do like my food a bit spicy. This was a bit spicier than I’d like and my wife gave up eating it after awhile due to its heat. So if you don’t like it hot, add less chilies. In retrospect, seasoning the chicken with salt and pepper before mixing in the marinade would make a better dish (to my Anglo-Saxon mind). The original recipe specified potato flour but it’s not in my pantry, so I substituted corn starch and there didn’t seem to be any ill-effects from it. The recipe also specified Shaioking vinegar which, according to the book, is a dark rice wine vinegar, so I substituted that (which is still a pain to find; I eventually had to go to Little Saigon to find it). My final substitution was replacing peanut oil with canola oil because Costco stopped selling it. While Changsha version is supposed to be closer to American versions of General Tso’s Chicken, it’s really not. There’s a vague resemblance but it’s really a different dish.

General Tso’s Chicken (Changsha Version)
Adapted from Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes from Hunan Province

12 oz. chicken (preferably thigh or leg meat)
6 small dried chilies, cut into 3/4″ lengths, seeds removed
3/4 in of fresh ginger, thinly sliced
1 tbsp tomato paste
3 scallions, green parts only, thinly slice
1 tsp sesame oil peanut oil

For the marinade:
2 tsp light soy sauce
1/2 tsp dark soy sauce
1 egg yolk
4 tsp corn starch

For the sauce:
1/2 tsp corn starch
2 tsp sugar
2 tsp black rice vinegar
1/4 tsp dark soy sauce

  1. Cut the chicken into bit-sized pieces. Don’t be like me. Make them actually bite-sized. There’s few things more annoying (this would the textbook definition of hyperbole) than eating food with chopsticks that are too big for one bite.
  2. In a bowl, mix the marinade soy sauce, egg yolk, and chicken. Then mix in the corn starch. The mixture will become very sticky.
  3. In a small bowl, mix the sauce ingredients.
  4. Combine the tomato paste with 1 tbsp of water.
  5. In a wok, add enough oil to come up about 3 to 4 inches (depending on the size of your chicken). Heat oil to between 350° F to 400° F. Deep fry chicken pieces, in several batches, until it is golden brown. Remove chicken to a bowl after deep frying.
  6. Pour all but1 tbsp of oil into a heat proof container. Turn your vent fan onto maximum (you’re about to pepper spray yourself). Turn burner to high. Working quickly, add the dried chilies, then add the garlic, then add the tomato paste. Cook until tomato paste becomes burnt orange. Add the sauce mixture and stand back (this is the pepper spray creation moment). Once the sauce stops boiling with the oil, stir as the sauce thickens.
  7. Once the sauce thickens satisfactorily (you want it relatively thick), add the chicken to the mixture and coat thoroughly.
  8. Off heat, add the scallions and sesame oil.

Serves 2.